Supper clubs - ‘underground’ restaurants where paying guests do the Come Dine With Me thing in someone else’s home without the sordid business of reciprocating, are the eating trend that ate Britain. Based on Cuba’s ‘paladar’ culture, the best examples feel like a clandestine 80’s rave/ cabaret/ shebeen at which you also happen to be fed like a prince. To the supper club faithful, to eat at the London abode of ex-punk/ anarchic cook Kerstin Rodgers is akin to a pilgrimage to Mecca - make that Noma. Known to her 7,000 Twitter fans as MsMarmitelover, she’s just published a quirky guide to the genre packed with sound DIY supper club advice, ‘I want!’ recipes and anecdotes - such as ‘hot’ guest Hardeep Singh Kholi, stripping off to stir curry (and unexpected longings) in MsMarmite’s pans. Duly inspired (by the book, not the possibility of Hardeep spooning my bhuna), toqued-up and table set, I’m praying I don’t poison my first punters as I dream about riches beyond Ramsay.
(Supper Club By Kerstin Rodgers: Collins £25)